The best moments of the winter season
The sun is warming the fir trees. The snow is melting, giving way to flowering pastu…
You know Méribel in winter and you may have discovered it in summer. But what do you know about Méribel in autumn?
Something has changed in the air; it’s hard to describe exactly what, but you can feel it. One morning, without warning, summer has vanished. The last whiffs of barbecue smoke have faded away, the restaurant terraces are empty, and you feel a slight twinge of sadness, as at the end of every season. It’s the start of a period when the mountains are draped in their softest colours, with golden larch trees and the first snow on the peaks.
Winter is around the corner, but before that, is a lesser-known season – more discreet, less hotly anticipated, but just as beautiful in its own way.
The lush green summer of the last two months, seen from the 3 Vallées peaks, has already given way to a completely different spectacle. Unlike fir and pine trees, which retain their dark green colour all year round, larch is the only conifer to shed its needles before winter. Before they drop, they turn from soft green to golden yellow and then to copper, setting the mountainsides ablaze.
The result? The entire mountainside changes its appearance in a matter of weeks, offering new landscapes to anyone willing to come and enjoy them. The uniform green of summer gives way to a mosaic of gold and copper, transforming the paths you’ve walked all summer long.
The walking paths, as their appearance changes, are emptying of the visitors that filled them all summer. Groups of walkers are becoming a rarity, the mountain huts are falling silent, and a calm descends where hustle and bustle reigned just a few weeks earlier.
This newfound tranquillity especially benefits the mountain’s other inhabitants. Chamois are gradually descending from the heights of the Vanoise, and marmots step up their preparations before disappearing for the winter. On many walking paths, it is animal tracks you’ll come across rather than other walkers.
From mid-September until mid-October, a hoarse cry echoes through the valley: the bellow of stags. This call signals the start of the rutting season, during which the stags are in an excited state. A word of advice: it’s best to listen from a distance and not approach them. Not that they’re particularly dangerous, but a stag in the midst of a display isn’t keen on you coming up to take a selfie next to him.
In addition, the herds are coming down from the mountain pastures at this time. It’s always a pleasure to see them, provided you respect their space. Be prepared to make a minor detour, making sure gates are properly closed and keeping your dog on a lead – and the encounter will remain friendly even if a guard dog comes to inspect you.
For a few weeks, Méribel takes on a completely different, almost silent atmosphere. Yet it loses none of its charm – quite the opposite: there’s still plenty to do, and the locals make the most of this. Many take the opportunity to explore the mountains in a different way, on e-mountain bikes along the numerous empty trails. Whilst the ski lifts are out of service, the entire biking area remains available to explore, offering a sense of freedom unique to this time of year.
This same sense of freedom is also enjoyed by local paragliders, over a landscape completely transformed by the bright autumn colours.
As the trails empty, so do the roads, much to the delight of our cyclists, who make the most of this time of year by riding without a care along deserted roads, amidst scenery that changes as winter nears.
It’s at this moment, just before winter takes over, that autumn reaches its peak. The first snows are already crowning the surrounding ridges, whilst below, everything remains golden, a brief moment suspended in time.
As for hiking, it’s much the same story. At higher altitudes, the longer routes take on a different character; the light is different, and you feel alone in the world, until a marmot’s cry brings you back to reality. Even if you stay in the valley floor, walks between the villages hold new surprises, and every outing allows you to rediscover the valley’s riches.
In the forests, it is not just the wild game that are active. Beneath the larch and spruce trees, porcini and chanterelle mushrooms hide beneath the ferns and carpets of pine needles, their caps barely peeking out of the ground. To find them, all you need is to know the right spots and to have some patience. That deep, earthy scent wafting through the air never fails to reveal what lies just beneath. Further down the valley, bilberries and lingonberries can be picked amongst the stones and tufts of heather.
These finds are a boon to chefs, who love to put a new spin on Savoyard cuisine using what grows just a stone’s throw from their homes, but they’re just as much a treat for the locals who know all the best spots. They’re unlikely to share them with you, but you are most welcome to track them down yourself – it’s well worth the effort.
So now you know why, for many people here, autumn remains the second most beautiful season of the year. When the first snows blanket Mont Vallon, the landscape will take on an almost surreal quality. Down below, the valley will still be cloaked in gold, and this contrast between snow and autumnal colours will herald the approaching winter, sparking a sense of excitement throughout the resort.
Do you fancy discovering Méribel in this different guise? We hope to see you here soon!